The purpose of make up is to highlight our most attractive facial features. This also means concealing flaws and imperfections. We want to draw attention to the eyes, the shape of the mouth, and add arching and full eyebrows for a striking look. Some of the trending videos on social media depicting ways to add depth and shape to the face demonstrate how beautifully make up can transform our entire look. It’s a wonderful way to get an instant confidence boost in the comfort of your own home. Following up from our previous piece in which we shared the best ways to select your make up, we’re going to talk about dermatologist-approved methods for applying make up and we’re going to look at what makes good make up, great.
What are the different types of make up?
- Liquid make-up/foundations
- Undercover foundations
Linking part 1 blog to part 2: choosing make-up for the conditions mentioned in blog 1.
An example choosing make up for Acne, Eczema, for pigmentation and for scars.. how do you go about that and which make-up formulation is best.
Choosing the best make up for your skin and skin conditions
Acne – Always use a good quality moisturiser especially if your acne treatment protocol contains any benzoyl peroxide. This ingredient draws moisture out of the skin (which is helpful, in severe acne) so be sure to replenish your skin’s moisture. Always use “non-comedogenic” products. Select oil-free products and avoid anything containing cocoa butter, mineral oil, or other heavy and greasy ingredients.
Scars/post-surgery – To hide scars, exfoliate before you apply make up. Camouflage make up takes the reduction of visible scars to a whole new level. Rather than plastering concealer onto your skin, go for a specially developed cosmetic that is designed to hide scars. Chat to Dr Khoza about the best camouflage make up for your skin.
Eczema and Mature Skin – When it comes to skin that is prone to eczema, choose cosmetics that are unlikely to trigger a flare-up. Cosmetics containing shea butter, Hyaluronic acid, Niacinamide, glycerin, and lanolin are safe. Products that contain Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and retinol, Preservatives and fragrances might trigger a flare-up.
Pigmentation – Pigmentation calls for a good quality concealer. A good concealer means you can get away with less make up but more coverage. It also means you have a more natural-looking end result. Getting a flawless finish means you have to colour-correct by choosing a neutral colour that matches your skin’s undertones. A colour-correcting concealer is the best product for this use.
My tips for applying make up
As a dermatologist, I am aware that certain brands of make up can exacerbate pre-existing conditions characterised by inflammation, like eczema and even acne vulgaris. However, with a responsible method for application and products that are reputable and good quality, you’re likely to suffer few ill-effects and enjoy a ravishing complexion.
1. Less is more – Heavy make up doesn’t convince anyone that you have a flawless complexion. It looks artificial and it can exacerbate existing skin conditions, like acne or eczema. The best way to radiate vibrant health is to actualise it. If you have a skin condition that leads you to believe you need a heavier layer of make up, I suggest that you visit your dermatologist and treat it rather than cover it. As a result, you will be able to apply the make up necessary to highlight your natural beauty, rather than covering your flaws.
2. Thin coverage – A thick layer of foundation tends to settle in the creases of your skin, highlighting wrinkles. The best way to achieve that radiant complexion with losing your natural shine and glow (which is what creates a youthful appearance), apply a tinted moisturiser or a light concealer. Once you have spread it evenly, use a moist sponge to pat the areas of the skin where you have wrinkles. This will actually create a younger appearance, even though it may sound a little counterintuitive. The idea of make up is to accentuate your natural beauty, not to visibly demonstrate that you are wearing make up.
3. Concealers are underutilized – Concealers can hide many small and common flaws, like uneven skin tones, freckles, and even discolouration under the eyes. The best part? You can wear concealer without appearing too full of makeup. It’s an easy way to apply coverage exactly where you need it – only. It may take a few different concealers to get the full effect. To combat the purple tones under the eyes, it is best to opt for a concealer in orange tones. It works according to the colour wheel – to balance one shade, you utilise its opposite shade. A concealer also works well when you use it in conjunction with a tinted moisturiser. For many people, we have found that it eliminates the need for foundation – completely. This keeps your pores fresh and able to breathe.
4. Moisturise before applying make up – Moisturiser is vital! I find so many people completely neglect this as part of their morning routine. Not only does it feed your skin and prevent ageing, it can also help you to get a better result from the make up you are using. Moisturiser will help to regulate oil production. If you’re frustrated by make up frequently wiping off, it might be due to oily skin. A good quality moisturiser with an SPF will also help the make up to appear more even on your skin. A tinted moisturiser can also help to even the skin tone, giving you a flawless and radiant complexion that requires a lighter layer of concealer.
5. Sunscreen is mandatory – Sunscreen keeps your skin protected from harmful UV rays and photodamage. The prevalence of skin cancer is reason enough, however, there are also aesthetic motivations for shielding your skin from direct sunlight. Sun damage to the skin can be categorised into three groups; colour photodamage which refers to uneven skin tone and discolouration. Dermal damage is the second and it refers to the cosmetic damage affecting the upper layers of the skin. Epidermal photodamage is dangerous, it means the damage goes down to the deeper layers of the skin and can often become cancerous.
Love the skin you’re in
If you’re finding it difficult to embrace the way your skin looks right now, that’s okay. Loving the skin you’re in doesn’t have to mean you like what you see. Loving the skin you’re in means you can work towards improving your skin’s health so that you can feel better about the reflection you see in the mirror. That’s where I come in. It’s my passion to help you feel comfortable in your skin. I do this by addressing underlying reasons for skin issues so you no longer need to cover up with heavy make up. I’m here to help you face the day with confidence.